1988 "Buche de Noel is my favorite cake!" Bright eyed and hopeful was the response eagerly given by my French Husband, the newlywed. The flavor was a known fact: Spread chocolate on anything and it was labeled: Yann's.
My mother had made jelly-roll cakes for my brothers and me when we were younger, was that the same thing as Buche de Noel?
18 years ago, before Internet and expatriate membership was a given at every corner in France, anything English was like having a 20/20 in Lycee. Peter Mayle was probably writing, "A Year in Provence," while I was struggling in Paris with only three words of French in my pocket of vocabulary. How was I going to find the recipe? Calling my Mom in California was out of the question given the nine hour time difference and expense.
To make a French Christmas cake, a Buche de Noel, for my husband's 24th birthday in September that was going to be a challenge equal to anything Napoleon had to do! Napoleon is believed to have said, "That the man who never makes mistakes never makes a war." Couldn't Yann have said brownies. With Napoleon in my mind I decided chocolate anything even batter would be a hit.
Photo Via Buche de Noel Pierre Herme
Down to the metro, direction Rue de Rivoli, destination: Brentano's, the bookshop in Paris (since 1895) with a large English section. Certainly they would have a cookbook in English.
On entering Brentano's there stood an American man the size of a fortress. Soft drink in hand, he was carrying on like his world was coming to an end, demanding the sales-girl, "...Don't you understand, E-N-G-L-I-S-H! I want a map of Paris IN English! A map that says, "Big White Church on top of the Hill," none of this rue crap, you understand? Why, tell me why, can't you folks just print a map that says street instead of rue?!" The petite sales-girl looked bewildered as she tried to explain. I left the bookshop, to embarrassed to request a French cookbook in English.
Up above the markets of Les Halles, battling in our kitchen the size of a nutshell, mustering up memories of my Mother making jelly-roll cakes, gathering allies in chocolate, sugar, eggs and flour I conquered my Waterloo! We had French Husband's favorite birthday cake that evening.
Buche de Noel
Follow the jelly roll recipe for the cake part by Betty Crocker,
Instead of jam I used Chestnut cream (very easy to find in France, so if you want some I can send it too you.) After spreading it on evenly and thick I added shaved chocolate about a cup's worth.
Have ready a thin cotton dishtowel, that is larger than the cake, cover it with powder sugar. When you take the cake out of the oven, turn the cake pan upside down directly on to the sugar powered dish towel. Then sprinkle generously powder sugar all over the cake and roll it us instantly. Also have your warm ganache ready, after a minute or two *unroll the cake and lather the ganache all over it, roll it up, gooey and all, and toothpick it if you must, and put it in the fridge for an hour two or three...
*Unroll the cake with care, but if it should crack do not worry too much, the ganache will cover the mishap. Put the rolled cake in the fridge, adding a toothpick or two to keep it rolled (put the rolled end on the bottom of the plate.)
For the frosting I made a ganache, then with a fork drew in tree trunk designs.
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This year I am making a cranberry lime tart with a gingersnap crust. It was from one of the latest issues of Bon Appetite. My cousin made it for Thanksgiving and it was both delicious and beautiful. I usually make a chocolate strawberry tart and I have a feeling I may be asked to make that as well. All will be happy!
Posted by: Becky F | 23 December 2016 at 12:53 AM
My son-in-laws birthday is on Christmas day, so there is something chocolaty and cake. In the morning I also make a German Stollen. That usually is it. By Christmas I have had too much sweets. There is some fruit cake in the refrigerator too. How I would love your buche de noel.
Posted by: Marilyn | 23 December 2016 at 01:24 AM
You are the best cook ~ I need this recipe please when you have time I know you are busy now. I have tried to make one before but it did crack too much. I like the ganache fix ~ xo, g
Posted by: lanmangina@me.com | 23 December 2016 at 04:04 AM
I'm making Nantucket cranberry tart (more like a cake) and Creme brûlée or maybe a lemon tart as a friend gave me wonderful lemons from Arizona. Have a wonderful Christmas!
Posted by: Momof5 | 23 December 2016 at 04:07 AM
Pecan pie!
...because I don't much like pumpkin and I can't stand mincemeat, which were the two standbys for my father's family's holidays. When I was a kid, I'd take the tiniest slivers possible, smother them in clouds of Chantilly cream, then eat only the cream!
Posted by: Kathie | 23 December 2016 at 04:21 AM
great story about what we once called the "ugly american"...
what did you end up doing? yann would love anything you make.. omg.. he was 24..
ahh.. wonderful memories of you both..
Posted by: Lana Kloch | 23 December 2016 at 07:22 AM
Bourbon balls. My Mother's recipe. She made them every CMAS.
Posted by: Franco | 23 December 2016 at 08:52 AM
Always a bûche de Noël, despite being British I have never liked the traditional English Christmas pudding and we have had a bûche since as far back as I can remember. A very Merry Christmas to you an all your readers x
Posted by: Our French Oasis | 23 December 2016 at 11:07 AM
Impressive, Corey. If this were last week, I might have given it a try. I have always wanted to. Maybe next year. I am making chocolate expreso cheesecake and peppermint brownies. I'm making your chestnut soup for Christmas Eve a tortiere.
Joyex Noel
Posted by: Dd | 23 December 2016 at 01:22 PM
I ordered a Buche de Noel from the baker in town:) I love all this stuff, bourbon balls, fruitcake, stollen...ok Corey, dessert party at your place!
Posted by: Jacklynn Lantry | 23 December 2016 at 02:18 PM
Spectacular and mouth watering. Yum. I'm in charge of dessert this year and am making my chocolate raspberry trifle , served with heavy cream. Heaven. Merry Christmas, Corey.
Posted by: Susie | 23 December 2016 at 04:44 PM
Christmas cookies. One year I made a Buche de Noel but everyone kept asking "why does the cake look like a log?" Never made it again.
Posted by: Kathleen | 24 December 2016 at 03:50 AM
Haha that man's request makes perfect sense to me.
I should draw a map like that. Did you get his address per chance?
Posted by: Parisbreakfast | 25 December 2016 at 10:25 AM
That was over thirty years ago. I found him to be so rude I did not ask him anything.
Posted by: French la Vie | 25 December 2016 at 11:15 AM