I am often asked about France. It makes sense, given that I live here and write a blog about it. When I travel to a new place, I like to have a few facts about the place in my pocket, too. A good restaurant, a must-see or do sort of thing, where to stay... a few starting bits so that I have a foot on the ground when I arrive.
The main question I am asked (outside of brocantes and where to stay) is about the secret spots, the hidden places, the off-the-beaten track, the real "France." I have thought about that question for a while. Imagine a secret spot, some hideaway, where few tourists have been, a place that captures the French essence. Somewhere where someone could go and feel France embracing them in one juicy double kiss to the cheeks.
The Hidden Places in France...
When you are in France, it does help to know that wherever you are is most likely knee-deep with wonder and awe. With France being the most visited country in the world, what secrets remain? In Paris alone, there are over fifty million tourists a year...
"6,100 streets in Paris
13,260 crossroads
3,000 km of pavements
33.7 km of Boulevards des Maréchaux around Paris
4.4 km of Grands Boulevards (between Place de la Madeleine and Place de la Bastille)
9,884 benches, 107 clocks, and 1,856 bus shelters
109 Wallace drinking fountains
2,417 km of sewers..."
Secret places in France...
I like grocery stores. And old-style cafes, bakeries that are not famous, and sitting at the counter sipping on something, usually a hot chocolate.
Over ten years ago, I remember turning on the internet for the first time and instantly typing words such as:
France,
French,
Brocante,
Antiques,
French Antiques,
Undiscovered France,
Touring France
and not one single thing popped up; instead, a blue screen stared back.
Now, anything, everything, whatever we are searching for is ours within seconds.
But then again, the places that are not on the internet are the ones you might want to discover.
How do I answer the question I am so often asked?
The first time I went to France was with my cousin Linda. My cousin was living and working in Germany when I arrived. Linda asked, "Do you want to go to Paris? I need to go shopping."
So we went to Paris.
Linda shopped. I tagged along.
We didn't see any of the sites other than take a drink on the Champs Elysee. We walked along back streets and into little shops; we rarely saw a tourist, and the monuments we saw were from a great distance. We searched for a crepe suzette. My first experience in Paris was magical.
Paris was fantastic, and the train ride was equally mesmerizing. I was hooked.
Years later, my parents visited me when I married and moved to France. We walked every single day from sun up to sunset. Each morning before heading out, I would say, "Let's focus on Pain au Chocolat," "The perfect rose," or "The best garden bench," and off we would go without any other agenda.
What does this have to do with off-the-beaten trails and secret spots in France?
Not much.
Discovering a place is about going with your shoes off, with your hands ready to reach out. It is about closing your eyes and breathing with your heart. It is about getting lost and finding what you are looking for. Discovering a place is seeing the beauty in the minor details: Holding beauty because you see it and not because someone has told you where to look. The secret spots, the hidden places, the off-the-beaten path... they don't exist per se. Instead, I think people want to experience France of their dreams. They want to wake up to what they have read about or dreamed about, and we want to have more to carry back than a souvenir; we want to fill our hearts.
They need a brocante.
What am I saying? Forget that.
Some of my favorite places in France:
First and foremost, all brocantes
La Boutique De L'Antiquaire: 9 Rue du Grand Pré, 84160 Lourmarin
Walk along the beach in Countainville
Any Market in France
Chez Paul my favorite restaurant in Paris
and so many more...
What makes a place come alive?
The people you meet and the experiences you share.
Friends who open their doors with their hearts.
If you want to discover a place, let it soak into you and take root. Expect the unexpected as a gift. If you're going to find that secret place, that off the beaten path, where tourists don't go, if you want the place that you dream about, be it the cobblestones, the church bells, the croissants with butter-filled happiness, the berets, the baguettes, the movie set imagery than come to France with your five senses as your guide. Trust yourself to find what you are looking for; leap.
If you want to be one of few and not one in thousands,
Then explore France in the countryside, in the middle of France.
Drive aimlessly.
France.
Add your French favorites in the comment section.
Well now, you had my tastebuds tingling thinking of all the nooks and crannies that are there to be found around France, not just the beautiful Paris! I have been lucky enough to have a couple of trips to France. For my 50th birthday I said I wanted to make it memorable in Paris, we had a bit over a week and we stayed in a "Garret-like" we room in The Marais, not flashy but comfy and central and we just wandered every day, far and wide, looking in every corner. I did of course do some of the tradition touristic things like going up the Eiffel Tower and visited the galleries, but then we mostly just walked and walked. I had a fabulous meal at a very old restaurant that had been recommended, we also made a trip to Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen, as I love the antiques, but I also like the everyday second hand sort of shops and antique markets, but we had limited bags, so I only purchased small things, old fabric and such things, as I love textiles. Then on another trip we stayed in a tiny hotel in Grasse, we wandered all over the area for a week, then we drove to Lyon, as my husband was going to a conf and I only had to go to some functions, so again I walked and walked around the city until my legs fell off! So, I have images of lots of little places, mostly old buildings, door knobs, wonky windows and bits of "old" anything. Loved every minute, happily do it again some time. Cheers Jennie, NZ
Posted by: Jennifer Phillipps | 28 August 2023 at 06:59 AM
I feel so fortunate for where we’ve been, and seen. Yes and eaten, and drank. The patrons of restaurants who have helped us with menus, offered tastes of their food. So non touristy. Invited us into their homes. Every thing you have said, and more. A magical country.....and I’m not exaggerating....
We have spent over a year there, spread over ten years. Hopefully a few more trips...
Ali x
Posted by: Ali | 28 August 2023 at 08:00 AM
Fabulous wealth of your knowledge
Thanks for all you share with us
Hugs
Posted by: Jeanne | 28 August 2023 at 05:19 PM
Lovely way to start my day. Thank you, friend.💕
Posted by: Kathy | 28 August 2023 at 05:41 PM
What a great post. Is Chez Paul related to Paul's in Paris? I have been there, but not sure they are the same. Silly, but the first time I visited France and Paris it was to go to tea every day for a week. Not what most people go there for, but I loved it. The second time I went I had tea with a blog friend and because we were willing to be open to adventures she told us how to take the underground to her neighborhood, have dinner with she and her husband, and gave us instructions on how to take the train to a large brocante. I loved being flexible to adventures when visiting Europe and especially France.
Posted by: marilyn | 28 August 2023 at 10:02 PM
After a long plane trip we went to a park. These places are hidden in plain sight and are great for jetlag. Parc Andre Citroen, nearby walk the Petit Ceniture old railway; Parc Georges Brassens; Parc-de-Montsouris; Parc Martin Luther King. Butte aux Cailles - interesting buildings; Helmut Guimard [metro railings] architeccture in 16th arrondisement.
We hiked the Gorges du Tarn, but you can drive; catch a bus from Aix-en Provence to Puyloubier and have lunch in the place; Aigues Mortes; hire bikes in Les Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer and ride to the lighthouse admiring flamingos on the way; Vienne, roman ruins, find the back street full of restaurants; Taradeau and go to the 2nd centure celtic-ligurian fort ruins; Lorgues, walk in and around the city walls, stunning market; Cotignac brocante.
------
Taradeau is now on my list. Thank you for adding the others; they are definitely worth going to and truly off the beaten path x
Posted by: Hilary | 29 August 2023 at 09:30 AM