They say there are 250 steps to the top of the donjon at Château de La Roche-Guyon. That’s true… if you don’t count all the steps it takes just to get to the beginning of those steps.
My friend Erika and I have been wandering through France without planning every detail. When we came upon Château de La Roche-Guyon, we hadn’t intended to climb anything. We thought we’d stroll through the château and gardens, admire the views, and continue on our way.
But then we read Donjon.
The donjon has stood watch over the Seine Valley for centuries. It was carved directly into the chalk cliff itself. Imagine that—workers chiseling their way through solid chalk more than eight hundred years ago, creating a passage through the living rock. The donjon’s steps have been worn smooth (duh), most of the nearly knee-high steps are uneven and slightly slippery.
Had I known what was ahead, I would have dressed differently. Instead, I was wearing low-heeled shoes with absolutely no grip and a long, full pant/skirt that I had to gather up in one hand just so I could see where I was going. Not exactly the outfit one chooses for climbing a medieval donjon carved into a cliff.
Whenever I climb more than fifty steps, I have a little tradition. I say the name of those I love and care about. Sometimes I add a prayer. Sometimes simply speaking their name is enough. If there are more steps than names, I start again.
By the time I had gone through everyone’s names more than once, I reached what felt like step one thousand, I decided it was time to pray for my shoes to hold on.
When I finally reached the top, the Seine Valley stretched out below me— the view was spectacular. The climb was forgotten…
Almost.
Because then came the walk back down.
And there I was, descending a medieval staircase carved into a cliff I wondered if people coming up were questioning my attire, “…look at white haired lady is in a ridiculous get-up for climbing.”
Again, duh.
But then I thought—maybe I gave them a laugh.
And that made me laugh too.
Donjon in English is Dungeon
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