One village after another dots the landscape as we weave along a single-lane road never intended for two-way traffic—yet somehow two-way it is.




Around every bend, another picture-perfect village appears, drawing gasps of “ooh” and “ahh” at the view. At the same time, we can’t help but exclaim as oncoming cars squeeze past us, leaving what feels like only inches to spare.


Feasting our eyes while making decisions about what—and where—to eat. Oohing and ahhing as pesto, Parmesan, garlic, and olive oil dance around us. Feeling our waistlines expanding by more inches than the narrow space between our car and those passing us on these winding, hairpin roads.

Returning to our hotel, we fall asleep before our heads even hit the pillow—literally—our hearts and stomachs completely full after another day of feasting.


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